Arthur Hooper’s Borough Market restaurant review
If you love food, then a visit to Borough Market while you’re in London will undoubtedly be a highlight. One of the city’s biggest markets, it’s a thriving community of sellers and passionate customers, offering a mind-boggling array of produce and ready-to-eat snacks. There are also restaurants everywhere you look, within the market and around the edge. Arthur Hooper’s is among the latest arrivals, which opened in May last year and has an enviable location on one of Borough Market’s most vibrant streets. We went along this month to find out more (and, of course, eat everything).
The restaurant is named after a resident who lived at this address years and years ago, who was a greengrocer (a slightly old-fashioned term for somebody who sells fruit and vegetables). The name is a nice addition, especially given this historic location. The interior is the opposite of a greengrocer’s however, because it’s been designed by the high-end home fashion label, Buster & Punch: The snug, intimate interior is decorated with steel-caged lights, marble tabletops and tailored, rare-wood cabinetry. It’s modern and stylish, but the mood is relaxed and casual rather than restrained and formal.
As you would hope, the kitchen finds many of its ingredients in Borough Market, which means that you really feel like you’re experiencing the area. The menu is a collection of small dishes and the idea is that everything you order is placed in the middle of the table, to share. The choice is broadly European and favours Britain, Spain and Italy, for example beef carpaccio with salsa verde and olive oil (£10.50), roasted cod with lentils, turnip tops and English mustard velouté (£19.50), or salads such as baby spinach, radicchio and blood orange (£4).
From the dishes we ordered, the highlights included one of Arthur Hooper’s signature dishes, duck pappardelle pasta (£11/£18.50 medium/large), as well as a burrata, samphire and almond salad (£9.50). The pappardelle was a generous portion of pleasingly firm pasta folds, which wasn’t too heavily seasoned and was paired nicely with a glass of Riesling Feinherb white wine, recommended by our waiter. In our opinion, you can never, ever go wrong with a delicious blob of burrata, but the kitchen’s decision to add crunchy almonds and salty samphire is a brilliant one – don’t miss it.
With a rosé sparkling wine options from New Zealand and a cheese plate which includes Swiss and Cornish options, Arthur Hooper’s makes a real effort to offer interesting choices to intrepid eaters. The cooking is of a good quality, while the mixture of tables, bar seats and stools means you could just as easily visit for a drink with snacks as have a full, filling meal. If you’re in Borough Market and looking for a grown-up, mid-priced meal or drinks, we suggest seeking out Arthur’s address.
Arthur Hooper’s, 8 Stoney Street, SE1 9AA
020 7940 0169 | [email protected] | Mon-Sat 11am-11pm, Sun 11am-5pm
Prices correct at time of publishing