Review: Cahoots cocktail bar in Soho
Is it a cocktail bar? Is it a train station? More importantly, is it any good? We send Neil Simpson to Soho’s Cahoots to get the answers.
It doesn’t get much more London than Cahoots. This high-concept cocktail bar recreates a 1940s underground station, so much so that apparently visitors to London sometimes mistake Cahoots for a real Tube station. Unfortunately, I have to warn you that most London Tube stations are not as much fun as this.
The above-ground entrance at Kingly Court leads to a staircase that really does look like somewhere on the Bakerloo Line (which I personally think is London’s best-looking Tube line), taking you down into a gloomy, lively and unique drinking den.
The World War II theme extends to the menu, which is filled with the sort of British phrases that have largely fallen out of use, such as ‘rations’ (the food menu), ‘squiffy’ (drunk) and ‘spiffing’ (very good). ‘In cahoots’ means to be in on a secret, so the bar is styled to feel like an underground, exclusive party, perhaps spontaneously started as scared Londoners are waiting for a WWII air-raid to finish in the skies above.
Cahoots’ cocktails continue the fun, giddy party theme by being on the sweet side – there’s nothing subtle about this bar. There’s a whole list of cocktails named after that period’s biggest names (Churchill, Sinatra, Hayworth, Monroe; £12-£13), as well as a few huge sharing cocktails and a section dedicated to desserts: the Cook’s Cheeky Cheesecake (£12) mixes two types of rum, a ‘fruit salad mix’, cream cheese foam and biscuit crumble.
Elsewhere, you can pick from wines, ales and lagers, while snacks such as fish fingers (£6) or a steak & ale pie (£6) are available if you want to make a night of it here.
Cahoots’ unique setting and lovable vibe make it a great choice if you’re looking for a refined night out in novelty London. Just try your best to book ahead, because the secret’s definitely out.
Prices and times correct at time of publishing
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